Unpacking Colombia
How to choose your first/next trip to the world’s birdiest country
By George Armistead & Phil Chaon
You’ve probably heard a lot about Colombia. For birders, few nations are as intriguing, and for American birders, its proximity makes it especially appealing. A three and half hour flight from Atlanta, Dallas or Miami, and you can feel as though you’ve been transported to a whole other world. But if you’re looking to dip your toe into birding here, it can be a little daunting to figure out where to begin.
Overview
Most are aware, Colombia boasts the highest species list of birds of any country in the world. With nearly 2000 species, roughly 20% of the world’s bird species are found here, including no less than 80 endemics (species found nowhere else). Colombia holds the largest number of hummingbirds of any country with over 165 species known from within its borders, and the highest number of cracids (guans, curassows, & chachalacas). It is an amazing place to see highly sought-after antpittas, in the genus Grallaria and Grallaricula. On top of that there are a number of newly discovered or rediscovered species, and a host of regional specialties that add a lot to the allure. And that’s just the birds…
Colombia is also an incredibly hospitable country with super-friendly folks, wonderful food suiting an array of diets, and spectacular scenery. The last decade or so we’ve seen the development of an increasingly vibrant birding community and eco-tourism industry, which have grown by leaps and bounds. On top of all that, it is also a relatively affordable place to travel. Considering all this, it is little wonder that this country has really grown in popularity. The trick is knowing where and how to begin.
Colombia is a large and mega-diverse country that can’t be easily tackled in a single trip. To begin to truly sample all the country has to offer takes several trips, all of which present a unique suite of habitats and endemics. Some visitors come once knowing they will come at least a few times more. Some come just for a taste of this incredibly bird-rich country. Either way it can be tough to know how to approach and so here we’ll try and lay out the options.
Biogeography
What really makes Colombia different compared to its similarly diverse neighbors is how the Andes trifurcate. As one follows the spine of the Andes north from its more southerly reaches the massive range enters Colombia and splits into three different ranges: the Cordillera Occidental (Western Andes), the Cordillera Central (Central Andes) and the Cordillera Oriental (Eastern Andes). Between the Western and Central Andes is the Cauca Valley, and then between the Central and Eastern Andes is the Magdalena Valley. Isolated from all these, wedged between the Western Andes and the Pacific is the Choco, one of the most biodiverse regions on the planet. In the south of the country is the Mecizo or Colombian Massif, which is also exceptionally diverse. And that only covers the Andean parts of the country…
The north features the Guajira Peninsula and the Santa Marta mountains, and the Perija highlands. Each of these regions harbors endemics, with the Santa Martas being perhaps the site with the highest rate of endemism in the country, and another one of the most biodiverse areas in the world.
The eastern half of the country can be divided roughly into halves, with the northeastern quadrant of Colombia being comprised by the Llanos. Pronounced “Ja-nos”, the Llanos are a massive seasonal floodplain that extends well into Venezuela. The larger watershed region as a whole is often referred to as Orinioquia, a reference to the Orinoco River that drains the vast area into the Amazon. The southeastern quadrant is part of Amazonia, a low-lying forested tropical woodlands that drains into the Amazon River basin.
(Google Bio-regions of Colombia and a number of maps will help illustrate the above. A basic summary can be seen here.)
Recommended Routes
Because of the diversity and how these areas really comprise a mosaic, there are almost innumerable ways in which to divide and explore this incredible country. Below are some recommended and popular routes. Note that we offer each of these as Hillstar Nature tours, either as scheduled departures, or as custom/private trips arranged upon request. We hope you’ll contact us. Again these are some segments we have put together as tours that we believe make sense and are enjoyable. But there are many ways in which one can explore Megadiverse Colombia.
The first three descriptions feature tours available now as scheduled departures. The trips below those are available as add-on or stand-alone custom tours. If you are looking for something easy and relaxed consider one of our Colombia: Chill Mode offerings, which feature a relaxed pace, extended stays at nice accommodations, and a mix of easy birding with some cultural elements. You’ll see some examples of these at the bottom.
The Santa Martas & the Caribbean Coast
Birds: ~28 endemic species to the Santa Martas, plus regional specialties including Santa Marta Antpitta, Santa Marta Warbler (below), Santa Marta Parakeet, Black-cheeked Mountain-Tanager, Lazuline Sabrewing, Vermilion Cardinal & more.
Food: Excellent seafood; also easy for vegetarians.
Special aspects of the region: Vallenato folk music.
Indigenous People: We learn about the Wayuu, Arhuaco, Kogi and other people.Hotel Nights: 3-star overall. Occasionally lack of hot water is an issue. Max. stretch is 2-night stay at 2 different hotels.
Hotel Nights: 3-star overall. Occasionally lack of hot water is an issue. Max. stretch is 2-night stay at 2 different hotels.
Roads & transport: Mostly good, but winding mountain roads can be challenging for those who experience motion sickness. One famously rough road traversed via 4x4 jeep.
Rigor & pace: Moderate. Up before sunrise each day. One day at high elevation near 9000 feet. Good amount of time on foot, walking 2-track dirt roads. 1-2 nocturnal outings for ~ 1 hr each.
Central Andes: High Times in the Cordillera Central
Birds: Nice set of endemics including chances for specialties such as Buffy Helmetcrest, Brown-banded Antpitta, Rufous-fronted Parakeet, Crescent-faced Antpitta, and lots of snazzy hummingbirds.
Food: Good food, wonderful soups including Sancocho, and traditional dishes such as Bandeja Paisa; also easy for vegetarians.
Special aspects of the region: Coffee Triangle (Eje Cafetero), Páramo habitat
Hotel Nights: 3-4 star. Max. stretch is 3-night stay.
Roads & transport: Mostly good, but winding mountain roads can be challenging for those who experience motion sickness. One or two rough road traversed via 4x4 jeep.
Rigor & pace: Moderate with a nice mix of looking for birds along remote mountain roads and looking at birds attending feeding stations. Fantastic photo opps. Up before sunrise each day. Two or 3 nights staying at high elevation at ~11000 feet. One day we bird an area at 13,000 feet. Good amount of time on foot, walking 2-track dirt roads. Usually no nocturnal outings.
Western Andes & the Choco
Birds: Many endemic and regional specials with chances at 2 big, bold, and endemic Bangsia tanager species, Black Solitaire, Toucan Barbet (above), Choco Brush-Finch.
Food: Good to excellent quality. Doña Dora’s famous arepas at El Descanso are not to be missed.
Special aspects of the region: Cali founded in 1536 is Colombia’s 3rd largest city, and the Salsa capital of the world. Tatama National Natural Park holds the nation’s top eBird hotspot (~500 species).
Hotel Nights: Max. stretch is 3-night stay. One hotel is very comfortable 4-star while the other is more remote, charming family-run 2-star accommodations but with excellent food. Easy for vegetarians.
Roads & transport: Winding mountain roads can be challenging for those who experience motion sickness. Some fairly rough roads traversed via 4x4 jeep.
Rigor & pace: Moderate. Up before sunrise each day. One day at high elevation near 9000 feet. Good amount of time on foot, however, walking slowly but for several hours on 2-track dirt roads. 1-2 nocturnal outings for ~ 1 hr each.
Bogotá & the Eastern Andes
2 to 4-nights before or after other tours
Birds: Green-bearded Helmetcrest, Blue-throated Starfrontlet, Bogotá Rail (below), Coppery-bellied Puffleg, Apolinar’s Wren, among many others.
Food: Good quality, with Ajiaco a characteristic soup of the region. Easy for vegetarians.
Special aspects of the region: City tour can include visits to Gold Museum and La Candelaria. The largest expanse of páramo habitat in the world is at Sumapaz.
Hotel Nights: 4-star hotels in Bogotá.
Roads & transport: Winding mountain roads can be challenging for those who experience motion sickness.
Rigor & pace: Moderate. Up before sunrise each day. Several locations are at high elevation 10,000 feet or above. Bogotá traffic can be challenging. Some time on foot, walking slowly but for a couple of hours. Also some time at feeding stations.
Perijá
Offshoot of the Eastern Andes, this is a 5-7 night trip targeting endemics. Good to pair as an extension off of the Santa Martas tour. Arrival into Bogotá, followed by a short flight to Valledupar and then drive up a rough winding mountain road via 4x4 jeep into the mountains of Perijá.
Birds: Perijá Starfrontlet , Perijá Thistletail, Perijá Brushfinch, Black-fronted Brushfinch, and Perijá Tapaculo, just described in 2015.
Food: Good “costeña” food in Valledupar, and many good options in Bogotá. While stationed in the highlands food is fine, but not extravagant. Manageable for vegetarians and vegans.
Special aspects of the region: Vallenato folk music
Hotel Nights: 3-star in cities, but 1.5 to 2-star up in the Perijá highlands where accommodations are basic though still clean and reasonably comfortable considering the remoteness.
Roads & transport: Rough switchback mountain road up into Perijá is challenging for those prone to motion sickness.
Rigor & pace: Moderate. Up before sunrise each day. Several locations are at elevation of 8000 feet or so. Significant time on foot, walking slowly for a couple of hours.
The Llanos
A seasonal floodplain covering much of northeast Colombia and central Venezuela, the Llanos are a wonderful mix of wetlands, winding rivers, savannahs, and gallery forest. Best visited for about 4 nights between November & April, the front half of the field guide is very well represented, with lots of big and easy-to-see birds, such as ducks, storks, herons, ibis, waders and raptors. And there are also chances for some other great wildlife too with strong opportunities for photographers.
Birds & Wildlife: Pale-headed Jacamar, White-bearded Flycatcher, Sharp-tailed Ibis + 6 other species of Ibis, and lots of colonial/social waterbirds such as whistling-ducks, Orinoco Goose (right), Jabiru, and much more. Fantastic for other wildlife as well with 100s of Capybara, and chances for Giant Anteater, Anaconda, and even occasional Jaguar sightings.
Food: Good “Llanero” food. Manageable for vegetarians.
Special aspects of the region: Llanero people and culture.
Hotel Nights: 1.5 or 2-star in the Llanos, where accommodations are basic though still clean and reasonably comfortable considering the remoteness. In Bogotá before/after the hotel is 4-5 star.
Roads & transport: Bumpy and sometimes muddy roads. Some transport is via a truck re-outfitted for wildlife viewing.
Rigor & pace: Moderate. Up before sunrise each day. Low elevation. Mostly birding from or near the vehicle. Afternoons can be very hot, so days may break in early afternoon, and sometimes later afternoon outings extend a bit past sunset.
Amazonian Colombia: The Orinoco & the White Sand Forest
The town of Inírida is strategically located as a gateway to Amazonia, but is also tinged with elements of the Llanos & Orinoquia. Some of the best birding Colombia has to offer, in a region still relatively little visited. A 5-7 night visit here can yield a host of range-restricted white sand forest specialties, as well as many local or seldom-seen Varzea forest birds and a big swath of more widespread Amazonian species. Many areas are accessed only by boat. Highly recommended, but note this area is remote and some days are moderately rigorous. See an eBird trip report of a scouting trip here (includes visit to paramo outside Bogota).
Birds & Wildlife: Many little-known or range-restricted species possible, such as Black Manakin, Yapacana Antbird, White-naped Seedeater and others, along with specialties like Orinoco Softtail, Pale-bellied Mourner, Black Bushbird, Orange-breasted Falcon, and many others. A handful of monkey species are also regular here.
Food: Good food & manageable for vegetarians.
Special aspects of the region: Cerros de Mavecure (above) are spectacular old small mountains (tepuis) that rise dramatically from the flatness of the Amazonian wilderness. Climbing them is only for the most able-bodied and fit, but a visit to see them is worthwhile and could yield Orange-breasted Falcon and other birds.
Hotel Nights: 2.5-3 star hotel in Inírida, where accommodations are clean and comfortable. In Bogotá before/after the hotel is 4-5 star.
Roads & transport: Mostly we travel by boat or short distances by vehicle to areas that we cover on foot.
Rigor & pace: Somewhat rigorous. Most birding is on foot or by boat (motorized dugout canoes). Walking is not difficult, generally, but a good amount of time on foot, and getting in/out of boats requires some agility. Rain is regular and it can be hot too, testing one’s stamina at times. Low elevation, but up before sunrise each day, and usually out in the field until mid-afternoon or sundown. Single-site stay in Inírida provides the convenience of being based at the same hotel for the duration of the tour.
The South: The Colombian Massif
TBA soon. Week-long trip in search of 7 species of monkeys (including Pygmy Marmoset) and endemic birds and regional specials such as Hooded Antpitta, Black-chested Fruiteater, Indigo-capped Hummingbirds and more.
Colombia: Chill Mode
Here are some options for those wishing to combine some easy, relaxed birding with mostly mid-low elevation sites, without too much moving around, based at comfortable hotels, where you can mix in cultural and historical elements. Talk to us. We can mix and match segments to create the trip you want.
Cartagena Plus (~7 nights)
Combine 3 nights in historic Cartagena with another 3-4 nights of relaxed but excellent birding in Cali or Manizales. Take a salsa class in Cali, or visit a coffee farm near Manizales, while also seeing a great bunch of antpittas, hummingbirds and endemic birds, found nowhere else in the world.
Medellín & Jardín (~7 nights)
Talk about a city with heartbeat! One of the most vibrant cities in the world, Medellin can easily be combined with a 3-night visit to nearby Jardín. Certainly among the most charming towns in all of Colombia, Jardín offers beautiful, brightly painted houses, nestled snugly into the eastern slope of the Western Andes, with great birding nearby, including the chance of Yellow-eared Parrots, and a fabulous Andean Cock-of-the-Rock lek.
Bogota Plus (~7 nights)
Take in Bogotá for 2-4 nights, see the Gold Museum and the Candalaria, while also experiencing ing the largest expanse of páramo in the world (high elevation). Follow that up with 3-4 nights of relaxed but excellent birding in Cali or Manizales, or…. for the slightly more adventurous, interested in some modest hiking, you could consider adding on (or instead) a visit to a comfortable little family-run lodge in Huila, for a few days of birding along the spine of the Andes. This site features wonderful home-cooked family style meals, with great feeders on the grounds, with some endemic birds and several species hard to encounter elsewhere.
Cali & Manizales (~8 nights)
Focus more on birding than culture here, but with opportunities to visit a coffee farm, and to enjoy a salsa show. Two 4-night stays, one in the Central and the other in the Western Andes, allow you to unpack and unwind while experiencing fabulous birding at two well-known hubs, keeping to mid-elevation sites (below 10,000 feet). Lots of antpittas, hummingbirds, and showy endemics.
Your First Visit to Colombia?
Never been before? Wondering where to begin?
The truth is that if you do not face challenges with elevation, energy/stamina while traveling and are flexible about accommodations, then all the above are pretty great.
If elevation is a primary concern, consider the Chill Mode options. If comfort is a primary concern then consider the Chill Mode options, or one of our scheduled departures to the Santa Martas or the High Times in the Cordillera Central. These latter two routes are tried and true, and well enjoyed with lots of great birds, great photo opps, good accommodations, and good food.
If more adventurous, and interested in a little rigor, or at least amenable to some hiking and less polished accommodations, then consider the Western Andes & the Choco,
The Llanos, the South, or Amazonian Colombia.
And definitely, consider a call or email here, if you’d like to discuss more.
